Wednesday, May 2, 2018

Build A Portable Pressurized Water Source For Grinding



When building lapidary equipment at home, or when modifying manufactured equipment, one of the largest problems which confronts any mechanic is how to feed water to grinding wheels which require cooling and lubrication to grind. This handy unit is easy and inexpensive to construct, and can be put together at minimum cost. Also, it is easily moved about, so that one unit will service many machines. A common household pump-sprayer normally used to spray pesticides is modified with some copper tubing and clear flex-hose, to direct a steady pressurized stream of water to any grinding operation. This unit even works at drill presses and hand grinding operations, as well as grinding wheels.
The first thing you will need to acquire is a plastic pump sprayer, and it pays to buy the best you can find, although any unit of decent construction will work fine, even used units. You will also need about two feet of rigid copper tubing whose outside diameter is the same as the inside diameter of the port at the top of the pump sprayer. This is the future water output of this tool, and the flex hose will connect to it, so make sure the copper fits tightly into the port in the pressure tank. When installing this, a little silicone caulk will lubricate a very tight fitting connection, then harden to further waterproof and glue it.
So the piece of copper tubing will be fit snugly through the hole at the top of the tank, after the entire original hose assembly is removed. The rigid tubing needs to be inserted deeply into the tank, to within an inch or two of the bottom, and about two inches or so needs to protrude outside the tank, at the top. This tubing is, of course, where the pressurized water will flow from. The fitting needs to be airtight, so the right sized copper tubing is a must.
Once the rigid copper tubing is inserted into the tank and is made fast, all that is required is a five or six foot length of clear plastic tubing to plug onto the copper tubing sticking out of the tanks top. Coupling nipples for this plastic tubing are readily available wherever the tubing is purchased, and most hardware stores, aquarium supply stores, or auto parts stores carry these parts. Use a coupling nipple to hook to the copper tubing at the top of the tank, and use another coupling at the far end of the plastic hose, to hook to a stop-cock type brass faucet, which can also be purchased at hardware stores, or an aquarium supply store. The plastic nipples fit tightly over copper tubing with just hand pressure. You may have to flare a small length of copper tubing and affix it to the input end of the brass faucet, in order to have something to hook this nipple to, but this is very simple and can be done for you at most auto parts stores or machine shops if you cannot accomplish it yourself. Again, a little silicone caulk may work wonders at this scenario.
On the output end of the mini-brass-faucet you can affix a hypodermic needle casing for a fine stream, or even leave the needle of the hypo intact, for a very fine stream. Be careful if you do that though as the needle is sharp and may rust over time. Your particular situation will dictate just how fine your water stream needs to be, and some experimenting will of course be necessary. It is always best to start with the smallest stream available, and modify from that point upward. You can make the stream larger easily enough, but making it smaller many times entails more work and materials.
The business end of your flex hose can be easily clamped in place with a tent clamp, clothes pin, or other clamping device, up to and including specially made units which are magnetic and are marketed for just such situations. You will necessarily evolve what is best for you, and its probable that you will use different clamping apparatus for different situations. Just be sure not to pinch your hose shut when clamping!
Now all that is needed is to pump the sprayer several times to build pressure within the tank.
The water stream itself can be easily adjusted by opening the stopcock faucet in various degrees, from nearly closed, to wide open. The wide degree of adjustability ensures you will have just enough water for all situations, and you will be hard pressed to find a more handy tool once this becomes a member of your workshop.

Saturday, April 2, 2016

Zero Effort Motor Mounting

     This is the 4th motor I have mounted like this, and all four were done with just one can of spray foam.  Almost zero effort, and me likes that mucho.  The foam cures overnight and is strong, yet can be pried off the mounting surface with a crowbar if need be.  So far the foam has stuck well to all surfaces I have tried, which include metal and wood, also plastic.  In fact I have not found anything it won't stick to yet.   This trick kind of reminds me of the Rastafarians in the Neuromancer novel, growing pot in orbit and plugging leaks in their salvaged space station with caulk.  If there had been spray foam at that time I am sure Bill Gibson would have worked that in, although the caulk was comic relief as well as good sci-fi.  That novel has come closer to reality than just about any other prognostication I have come across, and I assure you they are many.  FYI and read it if you get a chance. 

      The real trick to this is using the can of spray foam more than once.  If the can is not emptied, then the foam will harden in all the nozzles and make it so the rest of the can is wasted.  I learned to get multiple uses from my spray foam cans by using twigs wires and nails inserted all the way into the various orifices that are subject to clogging with the hardened spray.  Once the foam is cured in these orifices it is a simple matter to clear them by removing the nails, wires, or whatever you have used to capture the foam plugging the orifices.  Pull these make-shift inserts out and usually the hardened foam comes out in its entirety, clearing the way for another use.  I regularly get 3-4 sprays out of each can, depending on the jobs I am doing.  NOTE:  when inserting your nail or wire into the top of the can do not press hard, just make sure it is all the way in.  If you press too hard you could damage the rubber at the top of the can and cause it to stop working, or worse you could get a spray of foam you did not want, and this stuff is not anything to play with, once you get it on you, it must where off.  I have also used small amounts to suture fingertip cuts from blades or grinding wheels, and it works.  If you get it in your hair though, you will be cutting your hair, so it would be a very good idea to wear protective clothing, gloves, safety glasses, hat and apron.  The bottom line is: if you get this stuff anywhere,other than where you want to put it it can be a big problem.  Spots on the floor or other unwanted places should be left to harden then popped off once it cures, becomes hard.

     I use the lightly expanding stuff, it is better suited for my purposes.  You can try different foam/expansion ratings, though I am a super shopper because cost is my ultimate motivater in all things that require cash.  Not all things require cash, thankfully, because I would have been dead a long time ago using the federal reserve paper to get things done. And my quality of life would be about that of the 3rd world, which was the plan behind the foreign federal reserve in the first place methinx.   It is a slavery machine (Slaves, Obey Your Masters--the Bible).  It was made that way on purpose.  It is not American.

     Good Luc, and may beauty come to mean many different things to you too.

b



Friday, October 2, 2015

5 Tire Tumbler

     Finally, something really cool to do with old tires, wear them from the inside out, too.  These tires will give many more miles on this tumbler set up.

      This tumbler has been on a back burner for a few months now, waiting on parts, the bearings were the hardest for me to scrounge, I found them on worn out machines and they were still good enough for this duty.  I also found that taking a little extra time allowed me to really think things through; assembly went well.  No hurries, no worries.  The entire unit is made from salvaged materials, reconstructed.   Ehhhhhhh ....Stimulating.

     The RR ties were cut in half and about 2 feet are buried in the ground to make good long term posts.   Notice the radiator hose sheathing on the long shaft, the tires run better that way.  This is a key point really, and I got my hose out of a junked schoolbus, there was 80 feet of it running to the various heaters in the back.  The only real problem I have is adjusting the water levels of each tire load, because splash will wet the heater hose sheathing on the shaft and there is slippage of the tire.  On some of the loads I keep an almost muddy consistency in the slurry to avoid a lot of splash.

     This version of my latest tumbler ran fine before being fastened down even,  and I am kind of proud of the balance.  I could turn the shaft with tires on it easily with my fingers.  My 1" steel shaft was half of a drive shaft from a junked windmill dumped in the desert.  It was cut with an angle grinder fitted with a metal blade.  It took some sanding to get it smooth enough to accept the bearings and other hardware, but it worked.

     The motor got strapped to the ground after it was balanced a bit more.   Stakes and kevlar, yum.  The motor is a 115vac 1/3hp 1725 rpm which is a good strong motor.  The shaft speed is stepped down with a large pulley, and a very small pulley on the motor.  30-60 RPM max.  Slower is better.  I am using a 10"  pulley on the shaft and am searching for a 12" now to slow my rotation down a little more.  The pulley at the motor is a 1&1/2", and could be slightly smaller too.

    The bearings were only lightly nailed to the top of the posts, Just to eep them from moving, because I will need to get at the tires and do maintenance on occassion.  Ease of maintenance is worth planning for, these large machines really produce but also take a beating over time.  Everything needs to be adjustable, and balance is what lasts....once something wears and the system gets out of balance it starts to lose efficiency, leading to break down if not addressed.  The more quickly a problem is addressed the easier it is to remedy, and the less adverse wear on the parts around it.  A good shop tool is the laser type temperature pistol which has come down in price a lot.  You aim it about 8" away from whatever you want a temp measurement on, and it does it very accurately.  A hot spot detector.  Invaluable when working on machinery of all types.

   This is the third of these tumblers I have built, the other two were single tire experiments and for materials like glass and shell, and even metals (WORKS VERY WELL FOR METALS), they are really aggressive.  For agates and quartz things they work well too but require harder grits than quartz sand, and it takes longer of course.   To actually polish materials different tumblers need to be made and dedicated to different grits, because grit contamination is a sure thing with these unless care is taken to avoid it.  There is usually a fair amount of splash and I constantly add water to my loads during their tumbling processes. 

      These tire tumblers are also great for cleaning most kinds of mine run materials used in lapidary endeavors, and they can be employed as ball mills to pulverise rock.  I only run my tumbler when I can be there to supervise, and this rig will grind about 60-80 pounds fully charged, which means around 10-15 pounds per tire.

     Thanks for checking this out.  Good Luck.



Saturday, April 4, 2015

Quickie Tire Tumbler

Works well, will be slowed down a little more though. This is cleaning local turquoise. Notice the rolling action, a lot depends on getting the slurry right, and not overloading it.....it will throw some material sticking to the inside of tire, use a drop cloth or board to catch until the load adjusts itself.....b

Friday, March 27, 2015

High Grade New Mexico Rock For Sale

White Tiger Orthosiderite, $1.00 per gram rough.  WRITE LUXEFAIRE@GMAIL.COM.   This finished bead is sold.

White Tiger Rough, water wet.  $1.00 per gram.

White Tiger Orthosiderite, rough, dry, $1.00 per gram


Hachita Turquoise, with or without brown matrix, natural stone,  $.30 gram, rare hard to find stuff. WRITE LUXEFAIRE@GMAIL.COM

New Mexico Pyroxene Feldspar, cuts like jade, very colorful, $30.00 per pound.  These are finished beads not for sale, showing the materials attributes, very nice to work with takes super polish with diamond.  Lots of  patterns.

White tiger beads, and Tiger King beads, the brown is tiger king, dendritic psilomelane, 5.0 hard, works like turq, $40.00 per pound.  Below are more examples of the finished white tiger orthosiderite. 
WRITE LUXEFAIRE@GMAIL.COM






White Tiger Orthosiderite, $1.00 per gram rough.  WRITE LUXEFAIRE@GMAIL.COM.   This finished bead is sold.

White Tiger Rough, water wet.  $1.00 per gram.

White Tiger Orthosiderite, rough, dry, $1.00 per gram


Hachita Turquoise, with or without brown matrix, natural stone,  $.30 gram, rare hard to find stuff. WRITE LUXEFAIRE@GMAIL.COM

New Mexico Pyroxene Feldspar, cuts like jade, very colorful, $30.00 per pound.  These are finished beads not for sale, showing the materials attributes, very nice to work with takes super polish with diamond.  Lots of  patterns.

White tiger beads, and Tiger King beads, the brown is tiger king, dendritic psilomelane, 5.0 hard, works like turq, $40.00 per pound.  Below are more examples of the finished white tiger orthosiderite. 
WRITE LUXEFAIRE@GMAIL.COM






WRITE LUXEFAIRE@GMAIL.COM


WRITE LUXEFAIRE@GMAIL.COM